Ramen doesn’t have much nutritional
value. This may seem rather obvious to
anyone who has attended college on less than a rock star budget, but at
eighteen this observation constituted a discovery. Neither, I found, does McDonalds, or the majority
of the food typically served at pensions in Korea. And often, what these foods hold in
nutritional value is counterbalanced by what they lack in calories.
The human
body is like a woman. It may tell you
that it’s okay to do what you want, but deep down it expects you to see the
error of your ways. Should you be
incapable of recognizing and correcting your various faults for an extended
period of time, the human body will, much like a woman, eventually express its
dissatisfaction. Some times this process
takes mere days; sometimes months; but in the end the result is always the
same: you will be sleeping on the couch.
While
walking with two classmates to hear a speech on Korean culture at school one
afternoon, I became painfully aware of how sunny it was. I squinted my eyes to block some of the
light, but it was also becoming increasingly difficult to walk in a straight
path. I took a seat for a second to
regain my composure. Trying in vain to
begin walking normally my classmates suggested that we go visit the
infirmary. I insisted that I would be
fine, but my zigzagging across the school roads did little to help my
case. At the infirmary the nurse asked
me to lie down so she could take my blood pressure.
The next
thing I remember is waking up in the back of an ambulance, which I immediately
tried to get out of. “I’m fine!
Really…I just need...hospital car…um…I’ll go home. Thanks!”
My fellow American classmate assured me that, per opinion of the
medical staff, this was not exactly true.
My teacher, who had been called out to help deal with language
difficulties, gave me a sidelong glance.
“Ahyu…kinchanayo?...ahyu…”
I was joined at the hospital by
my two classmates, both of whom, like myself, were operating with a second-term
level knowledge of Korean. Trying to
discuss a brain scan in Korean after three months of language class is not an
experience I would like to recreate. As
a claustrophobic individual, trying to insure that I would not have a CAT scan
was of particular concern. “If small…no. I don’t like small. Get worried…if small. Very worried.”
I’m fairly sure that they placed
me in the mental ward of the hospital, based on the patients surrounding me in
the hallway as I waited for my brain scan.
All the elderly were particularly fascinated with my being a foreigner,
but one lady seemed particularly intrigued with my presence. Trying to make a foreigner feel at home, she
addressed me in what was to her a foreign language. It was also, unfortunately, a language
foreign to me. I do not speak Japanese,
and I’m fairly sure that nothing of my appearance gives even the slightest
suggestion of Asian extraction. As old
as she was, her knowledge of Japanese was surely a vestige of colonial
rule. This sad fact did little to change
my inability to speak Japanese, however.
One of my classmates, a Japanese man, translated her words, and then I
would answer her questions in Korean, which would lead to her posing another
question in Japanese.
I only saw
a doctor one other time that year in Seoul.
That visit was also precipitated by a nutritional issue, if a slightly
different one. Though I had learned from
the first incident that ramen did not constitute a meal, I had yet to learn how
to regulate my intake of spicy foods.
Korean food
isn’t spicy to the point where it is painful to the touch. What is painful is the cumulative effect of
three square meals consisting largely of pepper paste, or gochu jang. I weighed around 83 kilograms at the end of
my senior year of high school; four daily bouts of diarrhea had put me at a
spry 77.
When one
has diarrhea at such frequent intervals, there is a tendency to plan one’s days
around defecating. If I knew I was going
to meet up with a friend, I would plan to shit in advance. If I knew I was going to the gym later that
evening, I would eat sufficiently early to let the food reach my rectum. I quickly learned which subway stations have
the best toilets. And while the average
Korean might spend one hour per day watching television, I spent one hour per
day shitting out barely digested meals.
After
seeing traces of blood on my toilet tissue for such time that I came to expect
the daily red stains, I called Mr. Kim, a man whose family had taken me under
their wing since I had come to the country.
Every Sunday they took me to their house for lunch, dinner, and
conversation, and introduced me to several individuals with whom I would become
close.
I was hesitant to call him because
I knew what their reaction would be, but there was no other option. I needed the name of a doctor. As I expected though, Mr. Kim didn’t give me
a name. He told me to take a cab to his
wife’s office, where they both met me to make the drive across the city to the
office of a pediatrician with whom they were friends. I felt guilty during the hour-long drive;
like a child taking advantage of the kindness of these surrogate parents. It was one of the few times that I sat in the
back of their car.
Diarrhea wasn’t exactly covered in
any of the dialogues at my language school, and I can’t say that listening to
Mr. Kim discuss my diarrhea with the doctor was particularly pleasant. The appointment, however, was thankfully over
in a few minutes, the doctor deciding that I would do well to rest for a few
days, and consume a prescribed paste to coat my stomach prior to eating
meals.
Rather than charging me for
services rendered, the doctor in effect paid me to be her patient by taking us
out to dinner at a nearby Chinese restaurant.
And as if she had not properly reimbursed me for the honor of discussing
my bowels, she then proceeded to hire me at a rather profitable hourly rate to
be her son’s English teacher (She seemed concerned that I might refuse because
the wage was too low, though it was about four times what I would make a few
months later upon repatriating). This is
to say nothing of the guaranteed free meals that I would receive while later
teaching.
There is a word for all this in
Korean, “Jeong (정).” It doesn’t translate well into English,
though my dictionary says it is “compassion, sympathy, tender feelings.” “Jeong” is the reason that an older
individual might give a younger acquaintance an envelope filled with currency
notes, or that a young student will never pay for a meal when those present are
employed. It’s also the reason that the
Kim family let me stay in their house that night, and, though I did not take
them up on the offer, suggested that I stay with them for a few days until my
health recovered.
I had experienced this “jeong” in
various forms since my first day on the peninsula. My second day in the country I awoke to my
friend Paul’s grandmother folding my clothes and placing them neatly in a stack
by my luggage. She couldn’t speak
English, and at the time I couldn’t speak Korean, so she took her right hand
and rubbed it on my face, smiling. I
couldn’t imagine my own grandmother doing this, and truthfully wasn’t sure I
wanted to.
Two years
later while dicking around outside of the newly constructed “Technomart
(featuring such incredible technology as escalators and elevators!)” with Paul,
when it occurred to me that I had not seen his grandmother in the intervening
time. Paul called her, and as she was
close by she came to the pavilion at which we were sitting. She kept repeating “Pangawoah!,” or, “I’m so
pleased to see you!” clenching my hand as if it were a life preserver, only
letting go briefly when part of her story was deemed sufficiently emotional for
it to require hand gestures. Apparently
this is a common trait of the mysterious Korean grandmother, but I’m still
fairly certain that passerby wondered why a fragile, elderly Korean lady was
chatting with and holding the hand of a twenty year old white boy seated next
to his Korean friend.
She told me
about the difficulties she had encountered growing up on Jeju Island. Orphaned at a young age, she quit school at
age thirteen to tend for her younger siblings, sacrificing her own education to
eventually enable her younger brother to attend Seoul National University,
Korea’s version of Harvard. She
continued her story, talking about later difficulties, financial and otherwise,
she had encountered as her country made the transition from third to first
world. A few minutes in, Paul turned to
her, incredulous.
“Grandma! You never told me any of this, and you tell
him? You want to switch
grandchildren?” (“할머니, 처음 들어보는 거예요! 그래도 친구한테 이런 얘기를 다 하시네요! 손자를 바뀔래요?”)
“Oh,
I just didn’t tell you because you weren’t mature enough” (“니가 아직
미숙해서 얘기 안 했지...”)
“…”
Paul and I were born three months
apart.
Leaving his grandmother to go back
to her volunteer duties at the hospital, and promising to stay in touch (she
wrote me a Christmas card giving me the following advice: “Dolsey-kun! If you don’t plant a solid foundation in
these days, you will have nothing to harvest in the way of higher education
later!”), Paul and I left for
some food. Spotting a ramen house, I
quickly turned the corner in search of something more substantial.
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